An ode to time!

Around 1020 AD, the earstwhile king of Gujarat, Maharaj Bhimdev I Solanki, who was also a great patron of art, craftsmanship and science decided to build a temple having confluence of all three at one place. The place he selected for the construction was a special one. The tropic of cancer passed through that place making it a unique location. It was also conveniently close to the capital of his kingdom, Patan (abbreviation of gujarati word 'patnagar' which literally means 'the capital')

Taking advantage of the city's unique geological feature, approximately 200 years before before the Konark Sun Temple came into existence, the Modhera sun temple got crafted under his patronage. It was a lyrical tribute to the concept of 'time' and to the Sun - the god of time. A monument so powerful that it has proudly withstood the tests of weather, plunder and invasions for centuries. A monument so breathtaking that it still continues to enthrall the visitors even after a millenium..

You are meant to visit certain places only when you are ready for them. So even while I nurtured this longing for visiting it for years, things simply didn't materialize. Having kept this desire burning in my heart, I, in the meantime kept exploring various material available on the ancient temples, their architecture, the iconography and their spiritual importance. The more I read, the more fascinated I became with the findings. I managed to visit it finally as if the beckoning came from the temple itself.

No amount of photos that one sees on the internet do justice to the monument..It is overwhelming to say the least. I appoint a guide and allow him to guide me back to that era. The temple as expected is built in 'Nagar shaili' and with the maru- chalukya style to be precise..the three main components of a temple - the water reservoir or the 'kund', the sabhamandap and the garbhagruha or the sanctam sanctoram are beautifully maintained by the ASI. Entire temple is constructed by interlocking its different parts. No joining, grouting agents are used.

As I wander through the endless rows of beautifully crafted stone pillars and torans, that sense of being (positively) overwhelmed keeps increasing..the guide has to bring me back many times to his folklores and stories associated with each pillar. There are scenes of Ramayan and Mahabharat carved in stone, countless 'madanikas' or 'sursundaris' adorn the walls, there are carved statues of 'dikpaals' or the gods of 10 directions (2 additional directions to the 8 ones that we know that point upwards snd downwards), there are carved stories of everyday routine of the people, dancing and singing idols and most importantly 12 statues of the Sun god depicting 12 months..the water reservoir or the Surya kund is a tiny step well having 108 smaller temples along its steps. As per the Nagar arcthiecture, there is a layer of elephants often called as gajthar (गजथर) surrounding the outer walls of the temple complex, 364 elephant heads in a single layer and number signifies the number of days of a year. The 365th moorti is however that of a lion, signifying the start of new year.

There existed a five feet golden idol of Suryadev riding the chariot on his 7 horses in the sanctam sanctorum. The deity is however no longer there. It was stolen or destroyed during the thirteenth century invasion of Allauddin Khilji. As we stand in the main temple, the guide asks us to start our digital compass. The direction is perfect east west and the latitude is exact 23 deg north signifying the tropic of cancer. The guide explains that on the two equinox days i.e on March 21 and September 21, when the sun rises, its first ray used to fall on the diamond on the forehead of the original idol. I look wistfully at the now darkened sanctam sanctorum where once the deity could have so proudly stood. The fact that the deity has left from its position, changes the status of this temple to a monument. No worship has taken place here since the plunder. Guide shows the pics of the equinox days when the entire main temple is filled with beautiful orange red color in the early morning.

The tour is ending and I stop for a while. Softly caressing a pillar trying to connect to the lost times. It is absolutely possible to snatch a moment for yourself amidst the touristy conundrum and soak up the environment, to breath in the whiff of our ancient brilliance, to feel grateful to belong to this civilization..

While returning the guide points us to a newly constructed part of a damaged pillar. He points out that during 2001 earthquake, this new pillar developed big cracks but the original temple remained unshakable.. Chuckling softly, I turn to leave. It takes a lot of character and faith to build something as mighty as this temple. Perhaps not the cup of tea of us lesser mortals!

Time is cyclic. I wish sometime in future, we harness the capability to travel back in time and observe the glory of this sun temple in its peak. For the time being, my advise would be - visit. Acknowledge the brilliance. Marvel at the scientific temperament of our kings. Be thankful for this experience. Spread the word. Pay tributes to this dimension called time!