Reverse Tajmahal

Around 35 km from the majestic Modhera Sun Temple, lies a lesser known jewel of medieval Indian architecture. It is a tribute paid by a queen to honour her husband who was also a great king to his kingdom. Now awarded the status of UNESCO world heritage site, Rani Udaymati ni vav or simply called 'Rani ni Vav' has now gained the place of pride in our culture.

The story of the Vav is equally mesmerizing. After having ruled ably and kindly, the king departs for heavenly abode. Wanting to create something in his memory, the queen orders construction of a stepwell on the outskirts of the capital Patan. The well is constructed on the banks of river Saraswati that used to flow freely at that time. After a century, however, there is a massive flood in the river, and the river carries the mud, debris and flood waters in the vaav, completely burrying it..This, however, turns out to be the blessing in disguise as the vaav is protected from any desecretion by the plundering invading armies.

Centuries pass. This stepwell by Rani Udaymati becomes only a part of a folklore. Older generations keep its story alive and pass on to the next generation. Its story continues to be told widely. But the vaav is now completely burried under the ground.

In 1958, the newly formed ASI starts to explore the area based on the inputs from villagers and start geographical mapping of the area. A well like structure is thought to be present at the spot and for the next 30 years, the ASI keep excavating it carefully and finally present this gem to the world in mid 80s. The floodwaters have destroyed few platforms but what remains is unbelievably breathtaking. Having been burried under the ground for centuries, the well, the carvings, the sculptures are preserved in their fresh form - untainted by invasions, undisrupted by weather- in their full glory!

It achieved the status of UNESCO world heritage site in 2014 and now also adorns the 100 Rupee note in India.

Specifically a stepwell is a place where water is stored and replenished naturally, so the life thrives around it. It is a place for the womenfolk to gather, fill water for their needs and also to chitchat for a while in the cool retreats of the well. The platforms on the seven floors of well were intended to serve as a lodging place for travellers. The stepwells are characterised in four types depending upon the number of flights of steps leading to the main water reservoir namely Nanda, Bhadra, Jaya and Vijaya. Rani ni vaav is of the bhadra type meaning it has two flights of steps. This structure allowed free movement of people going up and down the stepwell. Beautiful carvings adorn the walls of the well. There are 10 avtar of Lord Vishnu and idols of other deities adorn the different levels. There are forms of woman in her different roles. Basic make up tutorials are depicted in the carving..a lady applying lipstick and another one taking a particular posture to apply her sindoor correctly in the absence of a mirror. The pattern of patola motifs, the weave of gujarat are carved on the walls as well.

This beauty of this monument renders one speechless! The sculpted sandstone structure shines like a bright jewel in the afternoon sun. It shows the glimpse of a healthy matriarchal society where the womenfolk enjoyed a equal status socially, it is an epitome of nurturing feminism, also the place that teaches one the importance of water conservation. There cannot be a bigger tribute to your loved one than a place that nurtures life. Rani Udaymati showed us how to be an empowered women while basically retaining the nurturing aspect of feminine nature.

Silently thanking mother Saraswati for her timely flood, I turn to leave with a heart full of awe, happiness and emotions!